The return of the shoulder, read from the Paris floor

Structure came back to the catwalk this month, and nobody apologised for it. The shoulder — padded, squared, occasionally absurd — reappeared in Paris as a statement about posture rather than power dressing.

The best versions were the least literal. A jacket built to hold its own shape, worn open over something fluid, reads as armour without costume. The worst felt like a period reference performed at full volume.

Accessories followed the same logic: harder heels, sharper toes, less ornament. The season's boot is a piece of architecture, and it changes how a hem reads from the third row.